Presidential Palace

We couldn't go in for a tour that day (fine with me) but we did get to experience another protest. This protest was from domestic workers who wanted more pay and access to government benefits. Apparently, protest is a way of life here. On any given day, some one will be protesting something. The country has been a democratic nation since 1830 (before us) but has had 500 presidents. They do not have a history of violent takeover, just get the president to take some money and get lost. The current president is trying to reform quite a lot right now and is unpopular with some. He has put civilian control on the police (the police tried to take him out in January but were stopped by the military) and is trying to reform the judicial system. One of the things he is attempting to do is stop blood animal sports (cock fighting) and this is a "cultural" issue. One guide described the president as crazy and another guide shrugged and thought it's just another day in Ecuador politics.

Last Morning with GAP

Our last morning with GAP started with an early breakfast and then hustled into the dingies to be taken to shore. We then went to the Charles Darwin Centre for a quick tour. There is research work being done here but it appears the prime purpose is to raise land tortoise in a safe envirnoment and then to place them on the appropriate island. After seeing how large they can become as adults, it was strange to see them as one year olds - so tiny!

This is also the home of Lonesome George. He was found alone on an island, the last of his kind. You can see stuff about him on UTube. He hadn't seen a tortoise for a long time when they brought him here and he was agressive and fought so they isolated him. He now, however, is residing with two females of a different sort.

After some time here, we went to the airport on Baltra.

Quito

When we returned to Quito after the island trip, we took a tour of some notable Quito churches. The guide pointed out that religion and politics in Ecuador are intertwined and that was evident at the Grand Plaza. The Presidential Palace and the Municipal Building are sided by the Bishop's residence and across from that the representative of the Vatican.

One church, La Compania, was started by the Jesuits in the mid 1600's and took 160 years to build. It has been hit by a couple of earthquakes and recently a fire but it is under repair. Apparently, the Spanish (guilty conscience?) are paying for the repairs. The inside of the church shines with 7 tons of gold leaf. All the poverty and 7 tons of gold?

La Basilica was started by an Ecuadorian president. Although it is in the Gothic style, the architect did not use traditional gargoyles. Instead, the different regions of Ecuador are represented (iguanas, condors, armadillos, boobies) which made it really quite nice.

The other was the Church of the Convent of St Francis. There are only 7 resident priests living in the huge place now. There is a lovely collection of art and the statues used in the Easter parade are openly displayed. As well, the original statue of the winged Madonna (I think from the 1780s or so) is there. After a few hours of all this, I was Churhed out.

Feb 4 Just How Canadian Am I?

We spent last night in Toronto at my brother's and went to get Rainne this morning. She was very excited to see us and laid at the door so we couldn't leave without her. She is very tired and sleeping happily on the couch. She had great fun with other Tollers and her mom, but I think she's okay to be home.
How Canadian? There is a gentle snowfall tonight and I was out bbq our dinner! I'm looking forward to my crosscountry ski tomorrow with Rainne. Being south was great, but I do like winter.
Although tomorrow is Superbowl Sunday and I will be engrossed (routing for Green Bay) I'll try and get some more updates on the blog. I have lots left on Quito and some amazing stuff from our trip to Mindo in the rain/cloud forest. Stay tuned, please.

Leaving Tomorrow

We are leaving for home tomorrow but I will continue to work on the blog. I still have lots on Quito and on our great trip to Mindo in the cloud forest. Stay tuned.
I'm sorry Jolen, and Colleen don't read this, but as far as the food is concerned here - GET ME THE HELL HOME!

Sally

I hope this is a better shot of the crab

Crabs

There were loads of Sally Lightfoot Crabs (don't ask me where the name came from - research for when I get home) and they are lovely bright colours. One one island I saw Ghost Crabs and they move too fast to get much of a shot. There were fiddler crabs at the lagoon on an island, too.

and more ....

More Birds

Here are some more . . . I'd forgotten to mention the very pretty little wrens and the ever present pelicans.

Bird Sightings

This is a list of some of the birds I spotted:

blue footed boobies, nazca boobies, storm pestrels, brown noddies, great and magnificent frigate birds, galapagos penguins, lava gulls, swallowtailed gulls, redbilled tropic birds, lava and striated herons, galapagos hawks, darwins finches (quite a variety), galapagos mockingbirds, hood is. mockingbirds, cactus finches, willets

And others I've likely forgotten to write down.

Jan 27 Afternoon

Went deep water snorkeling again at a rock formation called The Devil's Crown. It was amazing. Sharks, sea lions, turtles, amazing fish, plants. I am hooked. As much as I like birds and flowers I now believe the most beautiful things on this earth live under the sea. Hey, Jen, I may have to take up scuba diving! The boat then headed to Santa Cruz where we get off tomorrow. On bow, it was dolphin watch. A pod of bottlenose dophins did join the boat to play for awhile. I didn't go get the camera expecting them to be gone by the time I returned. Tomorrow morning we go to the Darwin Centre where they raise tortoise babies to return to proper islands and do research. Then, off to Baltra and our flight to Quito via Guayaquil.

Floreana Island

It is a beautiful island and we had fun here. It is named for President Flores who was the one who claimed the Galapagos for Ecuador. Peru wanted the area. Ecuador and Peru have a very hostile history and continue to harbour ill feelings. Ecuador is very self sufficient when it come to agriculture which is rather unique, I understand, for South America. One thing I have noticed in the port towns, Quito, in the rural areas, Mindo, etc is that despite the extreme levels of poverty, people dress nicely and are very clean. There is always someone sweeping the streets and plazas, doing roadwork, making sure the gutters are free to carry rainwater. Although the guides claim elementary school is mandatory, I've certainly seen lots of kids who have opted out or have been kept out to work. Clothes (not well made stuff but clothes) are fairly inexpensive. Other things, however, are not. Food is not cheap. A washing machine is about $800 and old fashioned tvs sell for $400-500. A relatively small (by our standards) flat screen was $1700. A gas range was $900 and a fridge was $1000.

Other side of the island

We trekked over to the other side and found a really neat cove. Underneath the blonde sand was green sand. The compost is really what makes the difference but it was so shallow. We also got to stand in the water have rays just swim around our feet and between our legs. It was startling but also sensuous as they just skimmed about.

Cormorant Point

Did a wet landing and took a hike to a lava tube. Much different from the other one. Very steep, needed flashlights, poor Linda took a slip and really skinned her elbow. We went way into the tunnel and I went into the water up to my waist to see the other end. Cool water and it was salty (I tasted it to be sure). It was quite a climb to get out.

Jan 27 Just an Amazing Day

We did a wet landing today to go to Post Office Bay. There is an old barrel there and sailors used to leave mail there hoping someone would pick it up and send it home. We picked up 4 postcards and will mail them once we get back. A card to Katharine is in the barrel but who knows when and if it will show up. It was an Irishman who started this with his post selling staples. It was also called the first Irish Pub as he distilled sugar cane.

We Were Not Suppose to see Them

There were many things we hoped to see and we hoped to see the Waved Albatoss. Unfortunately, we were told, the season was over and the birds would be migrating and gone. Well, my luck held out. As we turned a corner on a cliff we came upon an albatross just getting ready to try his luck. He'd be about 7 months old. He flapped and flapped and really was thinkging about it, but decided he'd try tomorrow. The adults kept flying over as encouragement but he had a bird brain mind of his own. As we walked again, we found ones about a few weeks younger than our timid flyer. Lucky we were.