Here she blows!
Monday, January 31, 2011
Jan 26 Afternoon
After siesta, we did a dry landing for a 2hr hike. We saw boobie babies - white and fluffy. They mature slowly and will be some time before they fly on their own (months). Red iguanas are found only on Espanola Is and it may have the biggest lizards. There was also a blow hole known as "Young Faithful".
Deep Water Snorkel
Later in the morning after the beach, some of us went out in the pangas to go snorkeling. One of the crew was our guide. Leonardo was a great swimmer, diver and pointed out great stuff. There were turtles, sea lions swimming below us, gorgeous fish, wonderful plant life, rays, wormlike and eel like things I cannot identify. It was a blast. We went back for the usual lunch and siesta. I spend my time on the bow looking for dolphins, rays, and tuna, etc.
Jan 26
We sailed overnight to Espanola Island (10 hrs) so the ear plugs were in good use! At 8am we had a wet landing on Gardner Beach. The sand was like powder and I swear someone spent the night with a sifter getting the beach ready. We share the area with sea lions, turtles, Darwin finches, Galapagos hawks and more. Robin found it too hot and there really was no shade, but it was an amazing beach and a great place to be.
Jan 25 Afternoon
After picking up passengers at Baltra, we sailed to South Seymour. It is a nesting area for frigate birds and boobies. The boat when sailing almost always has frigate birds drafting along. We also had Galapagos Storm Pestrels and brown noddies. We walked along the marked trails and saw baby boobies and Magnificent Frigate males in full courting mode. The male can puff up a balloon under his chin for about 10-15 days attempting to court a female. The female makes the choice but is influenced by the nest he has built (suitable to her liking or not).
Jan 25
Some of the passengers are getting off at Baltra today to head back to Quito. We are picking up some new passengers. Before that, however, we went in the pangas to a magnificent mangrove area. We were there for an hour and a half watching turtles, sharks (little ones), lovely fish, a lava heron, striated heron, a blue heron and lots more.
The turtles were great to see. This is breeding season and they were busy doing what the season calls for. The poor female has to come up for air every once in awhile. We were up close and it was fabulous.
Snorkeling and Galapagos Green Turtles
We went snorkeling in a cove to look for turtles. I got separated from the larger group as one of the swimmers told me a turtle was just behind us. I did find it. It was smallish and down on the bottom almost disappearing in the swirling sand. I swam back and forth and was getting frustrated to I headed to shore. Just then, I swam over a huge adult in clear water eating plants and algae! It couldn't care less about me but I did think I shreiked for joy though the snorkel. I floated above it just watching for the longest time. We both went back and forth with the current from the waves. I only stopped when I realized the others were getting back in the pangas. The turtle was so graceful. I know I've been told they are in the water, but I was in awe. Another wonderful encounter.
Jan 24 Afternoon
James Is was Darwin's favourite of the islands. Darwin was not a good sailor and was seasick all the time. He was on a boat not much bigger than ours but had 120 men onboard. Yikes. Darwin did share a cabin with the benefactor of the voyage, but still! The house is where Darwin camped to feel better. We went for a walk on this island and saw many fur seals, marine iquanas, American Oyster Catcher and others.
Jan 24
The day started easily with a panga ride around the coastline. We went to Buchaneer Cove which pirates actually did use. It was well protected. There were lots of fur seals, pelicans, brown noddies, a striated heron and a couple of Galapagos hawks. I have better pictures later to show. We also saw a rock formation called the Praying Monk. We went back to the boat at 9am and sailed to Espanola Beach. There we had a wet landing and went for a walk and a snorkel. On the beach (I was wandering by myself) I came upon strange tracks in the sand like someone had been there with an ATV. Of course, I realized I was looking at female turtle tracks as she went up the beach to lay her eggs. I found the nest, too.
More Jan 23 Afternoon
It was a busy day. After the climb, we took the dingies and went looking for penguins. Some went snorkeling off the dingy around a very rough point. I opted to stay and help Linda snorkel from the beach. There were great things to see, but the current was a bit strong and Linda felt more comfortable going back to the beach. So, I headed over to the other side of the cove for some alone time. I was really enjoying the fish, etc and I raised my head to get my bearings. I came face to face with a female Galapagos penguin who was resting on a rock. She looked at me and came into the water and we swam around a bit. Then, she decided it was time for personal grooming and did a real makeover! Then, we swam some more and then she got back on her rock. I was ecstatic! I was with her 10-15 minutes. I swam back to the beach and then we got in the dingies. I asked our driver, Rudolpho, to take me over to see the penguin. This involved a lot of charades but he really seemed to like to make me happy so eventually he got it. Her she is - my personal upclose encounter.
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Jan 23 in Santa Cruz
Another part of Santa Cruz. Dry landing in the morning and an hour and a half walk. Walks are difficult as the paths are rocky and unstable. Dragon Hill was named by a Japanese biologist who looked at the hill and saw the dragon iguana. This island was overrun with rats, cats, dogs and goats. The scientists removed the iguanas and took them to safety while they irradicated the island of pests. The iguanas were then returned. Mockingbirds, finches, fly catchers. When we got back to the beach, we went snorkeling. Linda went, too, and I took her hand to guide her around. Nice fish. Back to the boat for a 3 hr sail to Bartolomew Is.
Mindo
I know this is getting confusing, but I cannot do much on the blog re: Galapagos right now. The internet signal is low and pictures get stuck. We left Quito today (Sunday) afternoon and it took 2 1/2 hours to get 80km to Mindo. It is pouring rain as we are in the cloud forest. I took a walk around town this afternoon and stepped off a steep curb. My knee went out and I landed flat on my back in the street. No one, I mean no one, attempted to assist me. The fellow who runs the hostel is a bird guide but I think he really tried to take us on a price for a rather disappointing itinerary. We didn't bite so he brought the price down. I'm not all that enthused with where we are going but at 5am tomorrow we'll be on our way!
Saturday, January 29, 2011
Jan 22 afternoon
We sailed on to South Plaza Island over lunch and siesta time. South Plaza is very small and the trail on which you are allowed to walk is clearly marked. There are land iguanas here but also marine iguanas (they can swim). We also saw cactus finch, Audobon's Shearwaters (recently known to be of the penguin family), red billed tropicbirds, swallowtailed gulls, lava gulls, and more sea lions.
Boobies
When we were first on the boat, we were all asked what we hoped to see on the trip. My answer was to see blue footed boobies. My wish came true. However, the first sailing I kept seeing this bird that was too big for a gull but I couldn't figure out what it was. I was looking at many boobies but couldn't see their feet while they flew (they are tucked up). Felt a bit silly when I realized what they were.
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